1. C7 Procharger For Sale
2. C7 Procharger Installation Pdf Gratuity
3. C7 Procharger Supercharger Engine Reliability

With a mile long wait list reported by GM as up to a full year for some models of the C7 Stingray, the demand for these vehicles far outweighs their supply. When Chevy designed the C7, their intentions were to evolve the C6 into a vehicle that had performance capabilities that far exceeded the cost of the car. For those who are fortunate enough to take delivery of a C7 this year, the question becomes whether to mod the vehicle or not. While some owners are going to cherish their 455 hp C7’s in the picturesque stock form, what if you are someone that wants to get the most performance out of your vehicle? What direction do you turn if you want to maximize your power gains for your investment? Direct InjectionOne of the biggest differences between the 6.2L LT1 featured in the C7 and prior generation LS-series motors is that the new generation of Chevy small block motors feature direct injection as opposed to port injection. When we asked Ryne what impact this has on the performance of the kit, he responded: “A port injection fires the fuel into the port, and you are firing into an area where it’s going to hit the port walls, it can sit on the valve and then it will sometimes wait for the valve to open and then draw in the fuel.

With direct injection, it comes right out of the TDC on compression and then fires it so the fueling it gets is exact.”“If you run it too rich, you will run the fuel into the exhaust cycle, it will misfire, and will soot it up. So you have to be careful not to run it too rich or it could get the rich knocks. Direct injection is just more exact.

Everyone worries about DI being too lean but in actuality there is not much difference to a port injected car, it’s just more exact. As for timing, the timing is about the same as a similarly boosted LS3. On the same fuel at peak boost, an LS3 car with the same boost would be right around 11.3:1 air.fuel ratio with 13 degrees of timing as opposed to 12.4:1 air/fuel ratio and 14 degrees timing for the LT1.”. For many car enthusiasts, forced induction has and will be the go-to when it comes to getting the most amount of power in relation to the amount of money invested in their project.

Although forced induction has been around for decades, technology has come a long way and the newer systems have had to evolve with the changing times of automotive production. Thanks to new federal and state laws requiring lower emissions combined with higher efficiency, the automotive industry has had to adapt in order to meet these requirements and in turn have created products jam-packed with more technology than ever.has done a great job meeting these challenges head-on by creating a great turn key system. The goal for this project was to take a stock 2014 Corvette Z51 equipped with an automatic transmission, install a supercharger, and see how much power would actually be gained.

In their stock form, Corvette’s have had a reputation for being extremely great at being both a dependable daily driver but also a car you can take to the track on the weekend to have some fun with. With this in mind, an additional goal of this install was to see how much drivability and reliability was able to be retained. This is something that is extremely important because most people that purchase a C7 are going to want to be able to comfortably drive it at more places than just a racetrack.BaselineIn order to compare the performance improvements of the ProCharger system, we had to establish a baseline with our C7. In stock form, the Z51 equipped C7 produced 407.3 hp and 399.9 lb-ft of torque at the wheels on our dyno. From there, we wanted to take it to the good ole’ quarter-mile to see what she was made of. On a hot April morning, we took the C7 to the Auto Club Dragway in Fontana, CA.

Straight off the showroom floor, we were able to run 12.34 at 113.04 mph which are impressive figures when you consider this is a vehicle targeted at people who can easily daily-drive it. The C7 had excellent road-manners that did not disappoint on the highway or at the track. With our baseline established, we moved forward with our build.The System. ProCharger blower, bracket, crank pulley, and assorted hardware/hoses.Being one of the first C7 Corvette Stingray systems on the market, we were eager to get our hands on the ProCharger kit to install it in our C7. Not only does the kit offer strong power gains, but it does so using only 7 psi of boost and high quality pump gas (91 octane or greater). Discussing the kit with Erik Radzins, Calibration Technician at ProCharger, he mentioned, “The install is so simple you can do it in your garage and you are not modifying any factory parts. One customer bought the kit on Wednesday and was showing it off on Friday night after two nights of wrenching after work.”.

ProCharger’s vertically-mounted intercooler with only four pieces of molded piping.With this kit being available for both manual and automatic transmission applications, ProCharger has tested the one piece billet bracket system up to 1300+ hp to ensure it will be strong enough for any application. ProCharger doesn’t force everyone to get the same system, but instead give owners options like: two air inlet options – OEM interface inlet or Stage 2 race air inlet, vertical or horizontal mounting options for the intercooler, three different color options, and a handheld tuner option that yields significant gains over stock. No matter what options your C7 has, ProCharger has a kit with options that will meet your needs. Installing the ProCharger Supercharger KitWith an install time estimated at four to five hours, Erik added, “Unlike our competitors, customers installing the ProCharger won’t have to modify the ABS module and no factory fluids need to be touched.” For weekend warriors with no lift looking to install this kit themselves, additional time should be allotted as we used one for this install for ease of access and photography purposes. To install the kit, we summoned the help of Ryne Cunningham of who is no stranger to performance tuning. To start, we placed the vehicle on the lift, fully engaged the parking brake, disconnected the battery, and removed the plastic coil covers. The Chevrolet engineers did a great job designing the C7 with tons of room to work under the hood and an easy to access battery compartment located in the rear of the vehicle.From here, we gained more space to work by removing both from wheels and although this is not outlined in the instruction manual, it most definitely helped create more room to work for later steps.

In addition, we prepared the front bumper for removal by removing all fascia shroud screws and the various splash guards located in and around the front bumper.Once all of the clips, bolts, and pins are removed, the front bumper easily comes off which greatly simplified the installation of the intercooler in later steps. With the hood open and bumper removed, Ryne's shop removed the entire factory air inlet system, PCV hose, MAF harness, wheel liners, and brake cooling duct bolts in preparation to lower the radiator.The fan was removed to gain access to the radiator. As part of the installation, the various radiator bolts and their corresponding plastic shroud bolts need to be removed while keeping the radiator in the car. The radiator is attached using zip ties so that it can be moved around inside the engine bay without needing to remove it and drain the cooling system.

Once the radiator was free, they shifted their focus underneath the vehicle. In order to gain access to the crankshaft balancer bolt, the bolts holding the ABS bracket, K-member, sway bar, and steering rack need to be removed so that a pry bar can be used to separate the K-member from the frame. While separated, a one inch spacer is inserted on both sides of the vehicle.The steering rack is pushed up to gain access to the crankshaft balancer bolt. Using a 24 mm socket and an impact gun, Mike was able to remove the balancer bolt. On some vehicles an impact gun may not be enough and with the vehicle in a high gear and the brakes firmly pressed, ProCharger suggests using a torch to heat the crank balancer bolt combined with an extended breaker bar. With the supercharger and corresponding mounting brackets affixed to the motor, their attention shifted to the intercooler. ProCharger gives you the option of mounting the intercooler either vertically or horizontally but for this build, it was mounted vertically.

According to Radzins at ProCharger, “In order to ensure proper cooling, the kit comes with a massive intercooler that is actually one of the biggest we have ever put on any kit. If you are an all out drag racing guy, our vertical kit is hands out the best kit out there. If you’re a road car guy, you can mount it horizontally inside the easy-to-remove C7 bumper.”. With the ProCharger installed, we turned our focus to tuning the system. In our case, Cunningham didn’t use the supplied inTune DiabloSport to generate a custom tune for our application.

Cunningham’s explanation was that “There is nothing wrong with the ProCharger tune, it’s just I wanted to make a tune dialed in for this particular vehicle rather than use a blanket tune for every C7 with a ProCharger. It was very simple and only took about an hour.” For those that choose not to do a custom tune, ProCharger has you covered. Simply upload your stock tune from the ECM, upload it to your computer, and then email the stock tune to ProCharger who within 24 hours will send back a vehicle specific tune to be uploaded to the vehicle.Dyno and Driving Impressions. The MustangDyne shows rear-wheel horsepower and torque figures for both the stock baseline and the ProCharger equipped dyno run.With the ProCharger system fully installed, it was time to test the results of all the hard work. A simple press of the push button start fired the motor right up and it idled with ease. The subtle whine of the ProCharger was auditory excellence and with much eagerness, the C7 was quickly moved to the MustangDyne to test the results of all the hard work. With the simple bolt-on of the ProCharger kit, the C7 picked up an additional 134.3 hp and 81.6 lb-ft of torque on 91 octane pump gas bringing the new power figures to 541.6 hp and 481.6 lb-ft of torque– at the wheels.

What’s more impressive is that these figures were attained with only seven pounds of boost, which is a conservative figure done deliberately at the owners request. With more boost and additional tuning, there is even more potential in this power packed system.

You would not know it had a mod until you floored it.Ryne Cunningham Around town under normal driving conditions, the C7 handles much like it did in its stock, naturally aspirated, form with solid road manners and a daily-driver friendly demeanor. However, with a more aggressive push of the throttle, the C7 roars to life with its newfound 134.3 hp extra over stock. To this point, Cunningham added, “You would not know it had a mod until you floored it, it’s a lot stronger than before, but it drives just like a stock vehicle” and later added, “That car is fast!” The power delivery is very controllable and as you can see on the dyno results, there is still a linear power curve just like the baseline, there is just a lot more of it. The ProCharger kit greatly increases power from 5,000 rpm all the way up to its peak power around the 6,300 rpm mark.Intake OptionsOne of the options available for the ProCharger kit is the choice of two different intake options– either stock or Stage 2. We wanted to compare the two intake kits back to back so that we could get the full effect they have on the system.

Due to timing, we had to run the comparison on a separate day than the original dyno runs, which unfortunately was hotter. Due to the heat, the ProCharger equipped C7 baseline produced 524.9 hp and 476.5 lb-ft with the stock intake compared to the 541.6 hp and 481.6 lb-ft measured previously on the cooler day.

After bolting on the Stage 2 intake kit and taking another round on the dyno, the C7 was able to produce 538.7 hp and 483.0 lb-ft of torque– a gain of 13.8 hp and 6.5 lb-ft of torque. Considering the heat which resulted in the lower power figures to begin with, these numbers are very respectable for a simple bolt on change to the kit. We are confident that had we had similar weather to the previous test day, the results would have been even more pronounced. The Quarter MileWith a two week gap between the stock baseline run and the ProCharger equipped run, the two weeks felt like an eternity as we were more eager than ever to test it out. Originally, with the C7 in stock form, we headed to the Auto Club Dragway in Pomona, CA to see what it was capable of. With weather hovering around the mid 80s and the tires set to 27 psi, we were able to log a 12.34 second, 113.04 mph quarter-mile time with a 1.880 60 foot time – not bad for a box stock vehicle.

Upon returning two weeks later to mid 90s weather, we hit the strip one more time to test the difference the ProCharger would make. We were able to log a 11.20 second quarter-mile pass at 125.44 mph with a 1.708 60 foot time.

Considering the conservative tune we put on the system and only seven pounds of boost, we were able to pick up an impressive 12.4 mph and drop 1.14 seconds off the quarter-mile time just by bolting on the ProCharger.All in all, we could not be happier with how the 2014 C7 Corvette handled when equipped with the ProCharger system. While we were initially worried about drivability prior to the install, we were happy to see that the vehicle can still be driven exactly like it was in stock form with excellent road manners. What we were even more happy to see (and feel), were the great power gains accomplished by the ProCharger kit that provides power on demand.

With 541.6 rwhp, the ProCharger kit gives you more than enough power to have a blast on the weekend and easily drive it to work come Monday.

. Disconnect the struts from the hood and prop the hood up with a piece of wood. A 1 X 2 or a broom stick works best. 41” seems to be about the right length. Wrap and fold a shop rag around the end to prevent scratching the hood. Access to the front of the engine will be easier with the hood removed.

It is not a necessity but it will make the job easier. Should you opt to remove the hood, mark the outer circumference of the hood bolts with a marker or scribe to maintain proper alignment when reinstalling the hood. While someone holds the hood, remove the two 13MM bolts holding the hood hinge assembly to the hood. Remove the hood and put it in a safe place. Remove the stock air inlet duct by removing the clamps at either end and releasing the quick-connect emissions fittings. Remove the factory air filter cover and filter using a # 25 Torx bit. Remove the MAF sensor from the cover.

Also remove the screen inside the air filter cover. It does not appear to be attached very securely and could possibly become detached with the increased airflow. Set the MAF sensor aside as it will be installed in its new location later in the installation process. The neck of the filter cover will need to be cut off just behind the MAF sensor mounting boss. You want this area to be as short as possible while leaving it long enough to attach a silicone coupler and clamp.

We suggest you wrap a piece of 3/4 masking tape around the neck as close to the base as possible. This will guide you in cutting the plastic neck squarely.

There are a couple of small ribs that will require sanding off to allow the hose to seat properly as well. Do not overtighten!. The factory radiator hose is moved slightly in order to clear the supercharger tubing. Pull the hose away from the fan housing. This will release the two “push pin” style clips holding it in place.

Remove one of the clips from the hose. Drill a 21/64 hole in the housing at about the 8:30 position as shown. (you can also use a standard 5/16 bit and just ream the hole out a little larger) Slide the protective sleeve on the hose so it is centered on the fan motor. Move the remaining clip up the hose to align with the new hole you drilled and push it in. Pay attention to clearance between the MAF sensor and the hose later on in the installation process. If it’s too close for comfort, simply zip tie it to the other coolant hose to pull it away slightly. The steering rack will be removed to install the A&A custom damper.

Once the sway bar mounts are out of the way, the steering rack is extremely easy to remove. It really is a 10-15 minute job. As a matter of fact, once everything is disconnected, you need to be careful that it doesn’t actually fall out of the car. Before attempting to remove the rack, make sure the wheels are straight. Do not allow the steering wheel to turn while the rack is disconnected.

You might even tie the wheel straight with a bungie cord or rope to make sure. Small movements are fine.

Just don’t let it spin a full turn. Disconnect the wire harness plug from the power steering motor. Disconnect the harness plug from the fan assembly.

Remove the two 10MM bolts holding the fan in place and lift it out. This is not necessary but we’ve found it easier to work with the added room afforded by taking the fan out of the car.

Remove the 18MM nuts at the end of the steering rack where the studs go through the spindles. If the stud spins, you may have to pry upwards on the tie rod end, pushing the tapered stud into the spindle to stop it. If the nut comes off but the stud is stuck in the spindle, leave the nut on loosely, to protect the threads, and tap it with a brass hammer or a piece of wood and a regular hammer.

Install the new SFI approved balancer using the supplied 16MM X 2.0X 160MM bolt as an installer tool. The standard balancer bolt is too short to start pulling the balancer onto the crankshaft.

We’ve included a longer (160MM) bolt to use as an installer tool. (this will be the longer of the 2 supplied bolts) Put the thin flat washer on the bolt first, then the thick washer with the little step facing away from the bolt head. The thin washer is only used to prevent galling of the thick washer. Use the bolt to draw the balancer onto the crankshaft approximately 1 inch. Do not allow the installer bolt to bottom out in the hole. It will flatten the threads and, in turn, damage the threads in the crankshaft. Once the balancer is on that far, remove the bolt and replace it with the shorter bolt and the thick washer only.

The little step should be towards the head of the bolt. Make sure you have enough threads in the crankshaft to safely pull the balancer on before proceeding.

C7 Procharger For Sale

Put a little red Loctite on the threads and use that bolt to draw the balancer the remainder of the way on. Torque the balancer bolt to 130 pounds. The crankshaft and balancer are keyed so no “pinning” of the crankshaft is needed as in previous generations of Corvette. Reinstall the steering rack and sway bar in the reverse order they were removed.

Slip the new bracket under the module and mount the module to the new bracket using the existing rubber grommets. Having the ABS box mounted in the bracket will allow you to see just how far and in what direction the module must be moved. Very slightly loosen the lines, allowing them to rotate in their fittings as the box is moved. You’ll have to coax them a bit as the ABS module is moved.

Turning them and slightly bending them individually works best. There are two lines that run along the frame rail as well. Bend these so as to allow the module to move closer to the frame rail. The ABS wire harness tucks behind the bracket as shown. Slowly move the ABS module and bracket, as an assembly, until the new bracket lines up with the original mounting holes in the engine cradle. Install the two 13 MM bolts in the engine cradle, securing the new ABS module bracket. Retighten the brake lines.

The bolt holes are slightly slotted so the bracket can be adjusted to clear the supercharger bracket once it is installed. (you may need to adjust it later) Once the lines are manipulated properly the ABS module WILL clear the supercharger housing. About 1/4” of clearance is fine.

On 2014 vehicles the whole bracket assembly can be installed as is. The two 10MM bolts go directly into the water pump while the other two go into the cylinder head. You may have to loosen the cylinder head bracket to get a little wiggle room“ in order for the head bolts to line up. It should be pretty self explanatory once you actually do this. On 2015 and up cars there is one small difference.

You will see one bolt in the water pump mounting block is covered by the main bracket. You will have to separate the main bracket from the water pump bracket in order to get to this bolt. Once separated, bolt the water pump block to the water pump using the hidden bolt and one of the other bolts just to keep it aligned. Now bolt the main bracket back to the water pump block and the cylinder head bracket to the head in the same manner as the 2014. Move the smooth idler all the way towards the frame and snug it down slightly. (There is a long slot in the supercharger bracket to allow this movement).

Lock the tensioner in the open position by rotating the tensioner clockwise (from the front) with a ¾” socket. Once it is rotated almost to the end of its travel, insert the lock pin (5/16” bolt) into the open hole.

Line this hole up with the one in the back portion of the tensioner and push the pin all the way in. The tensioner is now locked in the open position for easy belt installation. Route the belt around the balancer, in between the spring tensioner and idler pulleys and around the supercharger pulley. Slide the idler pulley until it has slight pressure on the belt and tighten the bolt. Rotate the tensioner slightly, pull the lock pin out and release.

C7 Procharger Installation Pdf Gratuity

This should be about right. Tensioner preload can be adjusted by moving the idler pulley in either direction. (Lock the tensioner in the open position before attempting to move the idler.). The A&A RAM AIR INTERCOOLER, and its integrated scoop will mount horizontally in front of the skid bar cross brace.

Only the RAM AIR SCOOP will protrude into the radiator cavity once installed. The large plastic radiator shroud will need to be trimmed accordingly. This will require a little patience as you will need to trim the shroud a little at a time until you can position the intercooler in the correct location. Proper front to back location is when the driver side mounting bracket will sit on top of the aluminum crossbar with the end of the bracket flush with the back edge of the crossbar. (see pictures below).

Side to side location is determined when the small bracket mounted to the side of the intercooler will fit between the intercooler and the side support. You will need to visually make sure the intercooler is level and that the core is parallel with the crossbar.

In the illustration above you’ll see a dotted line across the shroud right where the 45-degree bend is. Follow this bend and continue the line all the way to the end of the shroud. This line is where the weld on the intercooler should line up. Hold the intercooler up against the shroud using a piece of wood that approximates the intercooler core size on top of a floor jack or post jack. Line up the weld with this line and then trace around the rear and sides of the intercooler with a silver marker.

Trace the outline of the front tank. To trace the line. Your outline will look like the above picture. (NOTE: The outline in front will actually mirror the one in the rear.

C7 Procharger Supercharger Engine Reliability

The latest intercooler has angled tanks on both sides as opposed to a straight one as depicted in the picture). Use the supplied templates to approximate how much to cut from the sides of the shroud.

The rear of the template should touch the cross brace and the front should go under the fascia. The templates correspond with the shape of the intercooler and amount of plastic that needs to be trimmed from the side of the shroud. The templates are different from left to right and are marked so. Cut out your outline with a razor knife or saw.

This piece is extremely odd in its shape and thickness. It will take some patience to get through this part. It’s best to cut inside the lines and then trim as needed. NOTE: This piece is very inexpensive and we looked at including it in the kit. The problem is twofold. First is the fact that cutting it in the car is much easier than replacing it.

Second is its size. The box required is almost as large as the whole kit, although very light. Shipping would be a very real issue. The large bracket on the left side (driver side) of the intercooler will rest directly on top of the cross brace with the end of the bracket being flush with the back of the brace. This is what determines the fore and aft placement of the intercooler. The right side (passenger side) of the intercooler will have a small mounting bracket that bolts to it and lines up with the diagonal strut on the skid bar assembly.

This is what determines the left and right placement of the intercooler. Once you’re sure the intercooler is in the correct position, mark the right side skid bar upright through the holes in the mounting bracket and drill two ¼” holes through the upright. We purposely did not drill the mounting bracket on the left side. It sits directly on top of the skid bar cross brace making it easy to drill upwards through the cross brace and intercooler bracket all at once. The only real considerations are avoiding the threaded insert that is already in the cross brace and leaving enough room on either side for the ¼” nut. Install the supplied stainless button head bolts and nuts as shown.

The right side (passenger side) silicone charge hose attaches to the discharge side of the intercooler, passes by the side of the radiator and ends up pointing upwards towards the throttle body at about a 45-degree angle. It is a tight squeeze to get the 90-degree bend onto the intercooler but it will go.

Attach a constant tension clamp to the hose but leave it loose enough to move the hose if needed. It is easiest to start on the engine side of the radiator support and push-pull the hose through to the front. The MAF sensor tube is aluminum and has a honeycomb air straightener in the bottom. This piece makes the airflow over the MAF sensor much more linear which in turn helps tremendously with the tuning. The tube has an inverted bead rolled into the tube and is epoxied in place so there is no worry of the honeycomb piece coming loose.

Just be careful not to damage the honeycomb material during installation. Install the OE MAF sensor in the new MAF tube using a 9/64” Allen wrench with the new supplied screws. Insert the MAF tube into the silicone charge hose along with a stainless constant tension clamp and attach the other end of the tube to the throttle body with a silicone coupler and two constant tension clamps. Tighten clamps after making sure all connections are aligned properly. Some cars seem to have a shorter MAF sensor wire harness than others. We have included a 6” extension harness with OE connectors to use if needed. Attach the 90-degree end to the intercooler inlet using a 3” constant tension clamp.

Attach the other end of the assembly to the supercharger outlet using another clamp. Again, this area is very tight but will go on with some effort. It’s easiest to start from the engine side of the radiator support and push-pull the hose through to the front. The blowoff valve (BOV) simply slips into the nipple on the charge hose and is clamped in place. If using a BOV with a filter, orient it towards the rear and slightly out. Install our custom high flow air filter in place of the stock unit and reinstall the modified airbox cover. Attach the 45 degree 4 1/8” silicone coupler to the airbox cover first.

Attach a 3 ½” to 4” silicone reducer over the supercharger inlet and clamp it in place. (larger supercharger units use different sized couplers) Slip two clamps over the 45 degree coupler then slip the inlet tube into it. Slide a clamp over the supercharger coupler and slip the tube into it.

Try to rotate the tube downwards to gain as much clearance as possible for the plastic radiator scoop. You can now tighten the clamps after aligning the tube.

Be careful not to overtighten the clamp to the modified airbox as it can collapse. On the passenger side, we use the stock crankcase vent hose. Simply snap the quick-connect ventilation hose onto the nipple. The nipple on the tube is welded shut to stop excess oil from being sucked into the intake. The large hose on the driver side provides adequate ventilation. Disconnect the factory hose from the driver side valve cover and install our 5/8” hose and elbow in its place.

There is a 5/8” nipple welded to the underside of the inlet tube. Simply clamp our 5/8” hose to the nipple. Go over your installation and make sure all your clamps are tight and that the silicone couplers are pushed onto the aluminum tubes far enough so that the clamps are behind the bead rolls in the tube. After starting the vehicle and making sure everything is operating correctly, you may install the engine covers as well as the radiator to hood heat extractor scoop.

Install pieces of adhesive Velcro in the appropriate places on the underside of the scoop to prevent marring the finish on the inlet tube. Install the lower flat panel using the stock fasteners. Double check to make sure no fasteners or clips are rubbing on the intercooler core.

Double check your clearance between the ABS box and the supercharger bracket. The car will run but needs to be properly calibrated before any aggressive driving. It will go into limp mode with too much throttle application or could cause engine damage. We want you to have the best experience possible when dealing with us both before and after the sale. You can always talk to a sales manager, the owner and head designer, or one of our techs who is infinitely knowledgeable on how the products operate and are installed. You won’t get a minimum wage customer service rep that knows nothing outside his or her script.

You’ll get great advice based on many years of experience every time.We’re happy to help you with your DIY install questions or product inquiries even after hours. The phones forward to either a Manager or Owner to help with both. Remembering that we are on Pacific time, you can generally get help until 9PM on weekdays and weekends alike. It’s something we started when the company was very young and have found it to be an invaluable resource to our customers.